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Ocean turbulence at meso- and submesocales affects the propagation of surface waves through refraction and scattering, inducing spatial modulations in significant wave height (SWH). We develop a theoretical framework that relates these modulations to the current that induces them. We exploit the asymptotic smallness of the ratio of typical current speed to wave group speed to derive a linear map – the U2H map – between surface current velocity and SWH anomaly. The U2H map is a convolution, non-local in space, expressible as a product in Fourier space by a factor independent of the magnitude of the wavenumber vector. Analytic expressions of the U2H map show how the SWH responds differently to the vortical and divergent parts of the current, and how the anisotropy of the wave spectrum is key to large current-induced SWH anomalies. We implement the U2H map numerically and test its predictions against WAVEWATCH III numerical simulations for both idealised and realistic current configurations.more » « lessFree, publicly-accessible full text available February 25, 2026
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Miguel Onorato (Ed.)The refraction of surface gravity waves by currents leads to spatial modulations in the wave field and, in particular, in the significant wave height. We examine this phenomenon in the case of waves scattered by a localised current feature, assuming (i) the smallness of the ratio between current velocity and wave group speed, and (ii) a swell-like, highly directional wave spectrum. We apply matched asymptotics to the equation governing the conservation of wave action in the four-dimensional position–wavenumber space. The resulting explicit formulas show that the modulations in wave action and significant wave height past the localised current are controlled by the vorticity of the current integrated along the primary direction of the swell. We assess the asymptotic predictions against numerical simulations using WAVEWATCH III for a Gaussian vortex. We also consider vortex dipoles to demonstrate the possibility of ‘vortex cloaking’ whereby certain currents have (asymptotically) no impact on the significant wave height. We discuss the role of the ratio of the two small parameters characterising assumptions (i) and (ii) above, and show that caustics are significant only for unrealistically large values of this ratio, corresponding to unrealistically narrow directional spectra.more » « less
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The Stokes velocity u S , defined approximately by Stokes (1847, Trans. Camb. Philos. Soc. , 8 , 441–455.), and exactly via the Generalized Lagrangian Mean, is divergent even in an incompressible fluid. We show that the Stokes velocity can be naturally decomposed into a solenoidal component, u sol S , and a remainder that is small for waves with slowly varying amplitudes. We further show that u sol S arises as the sole Stokes velocity when the Lagrangian mean flow is suitably redefined to ensure its exact incompressibility. The construction is an application of Soward & Roberts’s glm theory (2010, J. Fluid Mech. , 661 , 45–72. ( doi:10.1017/S0022112010002867 )) which we specialize to surface gravity waves and implement effectively using a Lie series expansion. We further show that the corresponding Lagrangian-mean momentum equation is formally identical to the Craik–Leibovich (CL) equation with u sol S replacing u S , and we discuss the form of the Stokes pumping associated with both u S and u sol S . This article is part of the theme issue ‘Mathematical problems in physical fluid dynamics (part 1)’.more » « less
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null (Ed.)Abstract Anticyclonic vortices focus and trap near-inertial waves so that near-inertial energy levels are elevated within the vortex core. Some aspects of this process, including the nonlinear modification of the vortex by the wave, are explained by the existence of trapped near-inertial eigenmodes. These vortex eigenmodes are easily excited by an initialwave with horizontal scale much larger than that of the vortex radius. We study this process using a wave-averaged model of near-inertial dynamics and compare its theoretical predictions with numerical solutions of the three-dimensional Boussinesq equations. In the linear approximation, the model predicts the eigenmode frequencies and spatial structures, and a near-inertial wave energy signature that is characterized by an approximately time-periodic, azimuthally invariant pattern. The wave-averaged model represents the nonlinear feedback of the waves on the vortex via a wave-induced contribution to the potential vorticity that is proportional to the Laplacian of the kinetic energy density of the waves. When this is taken into account, the modal frequency is predicted to increase linearly with the energy of the initial excitation. Both linear and nonlinear predictions agree convincingly with the Boussinesq results.more » « less
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null (Ed.)In the presence of inertia-gravity waves, the geostrophic and hydrostatic balance that characterises the slow dynamics of rapidly rotating, strongly stratified flows holds in a time-averaged sense and applies to the Lagrangian-mean velocity and buoyancy. We give an elementary derivation of this wave-averaged balance and illustrate its accuracy in numerical solutions of the three-dimensional Boussinesq equations, using a simple configuration in which vertically planar near-inertial waves interact with a barotropic anticylonic vortex. We further use the conservation of the wave-averaged potential vorticity to predict the change in the barotropic vortex induced by the waves.more » « less
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